Soft Core and Mast Step Repair

[Peter T]

Hi Andrew, hav a link for you to watch on U tube regarding fixing soft core of deck. Very worth while a look.
https://youtu.be/qIytOVWaprg?si=btbuEj4HL1TkreEm

Most important is to get it as dry as possible before injecting with epoxy. This can be done by both blowing low pressure compressed air through the core or by using a vacuum to suck out water.
I am busy for a cc couple of weeks and will be out of the country but will get back to you once I return. Cheers

[Peter T]

Hi Andrew, that's a great idea. What I did was everywhere there is a bolt, I drilled out the bolt hole about half as much again, used gorilla tape on the under side and then filled the bolt holes with epoxy. Then re drilled the correct hole size through the epoxy. The idea is to have epoxy completely around the bolt so that water can not get into the core at all. I did this before I epoxyfilled the core areas. This way, you can use a good sikkacompound to seal the bolts. Makes a really permanent fix.
Also, when you are epoxy filling the core, I drilled small holes in a square pattern every couple of inches. Then you can use either low pressure compressed air to blow dry the core or better still, use a vacuum system to suck out any moisture. It will surprise you how much you can get out. Also, check out the link I sent to you on U tube where the bloke does tests on various deck core repairs. Very interesting.
Cheers

[Andrew]

Thanks Peter, that video is really good (also the video comments) Looks like epoxy is the strongest and "easiest" way to go for small deck areas where extra weight isn't a problem ( for cruising not racing and plenty of lead keel to help too) The video proves that it is a very strong fix.

Today i finished the prep-work. Raided the Mrs kitchen drawer and got every sized drinking straw out. Used these as "formwork" inside the deck fitting bolt holes, but first covered them with silicone spray (so epoxy won't stick, and might be able to extact them). My idea is that the bolt hole will be in perfect alignment as before. (if the straws get glued in, then they can be reamed out with drill bit) but when finished, the hole will be going through solid epoxy core. (and it will be easier to run bolts through)

Also dried it out another day in the hot sun, (video - hotter the better, more evaporation) (then cover holes at night with tape, and tarp over as well) (I don't have a vacuum pump, or have the technical skill for that..but it would be the best way) (video/comments - guys had moisture meters)

Hope to do the "epoxy pour" tomorrow, weather permitting. Set up the mixing bench and epoxy gear box, read instructions (hope 4L is enough) The deck core (void) is 12-15mm thick.. Cheers

[Andrew]

Epoxy injected the cabin top deck forward of mast. Used all my 4L of epoxy up, but it's solid as a rock now.

My daughter was mixing the resin and hardener (pumps. 5:1 ratio) in paper cups. I injected the lowest holes first, when they were full, just taped over them with green painters tape. (this penetrated the outermost cabin top void edges, probably crumbly foam there)

Then we added micro-balloons to the mix (about 20%?) which made it a bit more viscous and manageable for the total void area (Down below, painters tape couldn't hold resin up, it leaked onto dropsheets below, had to use strong cloth tape, to seal )

With 2 people its far easier, i stayed on deck and got cups of mixed epoxy handed up. It was a sunny 30C day, on deck was far hotter in direct sun. It set hard in 20 mins even with slow hardener. Will let it cure a few days before walking on it.

Still got the foredeck to do..

[Andrew]

Epoxy table and deck still with the bandages on after "surgery"

[Peter T]

Well done Andrew. What I did was to make little plugs out of about 3/4 inch long pieces of 1/4 inch dowel sharpened at one end by filing to a point one end in the chuck of a drill or lathe. These were removed after the epoxy went off enough not to be runny but before it set completely. Then I filled the little voids with a dab of thickened epoxy once it had cured . Sanded down and primed and painted with non skid, you couldn't see where it was done.
You will be very happy having done this with thevknowledge that it is now so solid and that you won't loose your mast ( at least for that reason)
Great work and well worth the effort
I also fully replaced all the timber inside the mast step and also filled around the ply that I used and then re fibreglassed the top of it. Now completely solid and new. Also, drilling a hole in eack little pod where the hand rail fits and filling those with epoxy as well, fixes it all completely.
Great work. Well done
Ps also see my post on mast step repairs.

[Andrew]

Thanks Peter,

It's great walking on a very solid cabin deck for the first time ever! I might add a bit more epoxy around and under the mast step, but ran out this round. It's going to instill allot more confidence in the boat and ability to sail in strong winds/rough seas again (i've been nursing the boat last few years, picking fairweather windows, or more sheltered waters, which limits the trip options hugely. but that's not as neccessary in future)

At the only WEST epoxy store here (Ross Haven marine) they'd run out of 206 slow hardener in 0.8L size. Need a good roof over boat, and that's the plan this year.

[Andrew]

Hi All, have done a 2nd round of soft core epoxy repair work. This time was the foredeck and sidedecks back to behind the chain plates.

Gradually learning the art of epoxy injection the not so easy way. Devil is in the detail (for the less practically inclined boat repair hobbyists out there) Had allot of dowel plugs ready to stop overflow this time. Also bought allot of livestock syringes 20ml, 30ml and 50ml capacity from an agricultural supply store for $20 (cheaper than ship chandlery) I found it pays to have allot of spare ones incase one breaks the tip off...(because the tip was wedged into the hole) the outlets of the livestock syringes are only about 3mm so drilled some 4mm side deck holes with 4mm dowel plugs. (having some clearance between tip and hole prevents breakage) Tested a 20ml syringe this round..it works but 30ml might be better.

Didn't thicken the epoxy this time, because of the reduced tip sizes and so it could gravity flow into every nook and cranny.(but when it overflows a hole it's wicked stuff.) We had 2 party cups mixing/injecting which sped it up. (NB CLOTH TAPE covering and sealing below decks holes held up well)

I did the soft side decks as well, because this is where allot of sailing loads would be tranferred through the rig through the cabin and into the hull. The decks are all rock solid forward of the mast arch support and area now.