centreboard removal

[robw]

hi whats the best way to take out the centreboard. I have sourced out a blog where the boat is taken off the trailer and rolled on its side to get to the centreboard. Is that the normal or easiest way.I could do with some info from someone with experience in this process . would appreciate any info cheers rob

[Ozzie]

Rob. This is what works for me .
I will lift directly my post on this matter from TSP. I started a section over there called "Tool Time" which was well used by many members and has a few good hints on it from various persons on various subjects relevant to maintaining your TS. Its worth a read and I should tranfer all my info from there to here.

Thought I would throw this tool pic in to keep TOOL TIME kicking along. Its a 2 in one pic. This is the boat stand my mate with the Court750 made up in square steel section with 250x100 timber beam shaped to his hull. I borrow it annually to hold the back of the 563 so I can drop the keel down for servicing. In exchange for its use I've added few useful bits like the carpet , drain holes and rustproofer on the joints for him.

Its a great bit of kit and well worth making up for boat work. I dont think it was that expensive. I rest the back of Spritzig on it and drive the trailer forward enough to drop the keel, relocating a floor jack at intervals to keep the weight on the stand. Much safer than concrete blocks and tyres etc, although i do add a few concrete blocks as a precaution before I get directly underneath the thing. The front stays on the trailer with the bunks suitable elevated to steady it and the car remains connected at all times. I antifoul the bottom of the keel after servicing the centreboard.

On it you will notice a huge pair of bolt cutters held on with a G clamp..... this is my rigging station. The bolt cutters I picked up from a garage sale for $10. One of the jaws had been broken and welded back so the seller said they still worked but he would not say how strong they would be. I did not need bolt cutters that big(although I've tried them and they were fine) but I did need a swaging tool. The right Cobalt drill from Bunnys and 10 minutes work and I had the ultimate swager. Easy with the huge mechanical advantage and I've tested the result by trying to pull the swage apart with my car . When you swage with this they stay swagged, the wire snapped first . On the 563 rigging I used double swages , which I researched and are fine if you space them so that the swages cannot work against each other. Cheaper by far than a small tool from bias and easier to use. The other end of my rigging wires are held in the top of and old timber and steel ironing board with various screws drilled into it to hold the already swaged ends.

IMG262.jpg (54.89 KiB) Viewed 6386 times

I have used it quite few times to lower the keel into a hole I dig for servicing but would be easy to drop the keel completely in the horizontal position once you undo the bolts . The stand unit could be made from timber only I suppose providing it was of sufficient strength but obviously steel is a lot safer. The advantage of the setup is the the front of the boat remains on the trailer connected to the car so it feels very safe and solid . The mate I borrow it from supports the front of his boat and drives the trailer out from under the hull but he does not have the long keel to clear. If you have mates with boats you may be able to share the cost of the stand as its only something you would all use occasionally or one supply the materials if the other can weld.

Until I had access to this device I was also looking at the possibility of making the middle cross member of the trailer removable. You would probably need to have this engineer certified but i think it could be done. On my trailer you would need to move the boat slightly forward to have the CB just clear the rear cross support and then the CB could be lowered down through the gap where the removable support was. This was just an idea, you may get different results if you try this at home

[Andrew]

Gday rob, i removed my centerboard 2 years ago..here are some links about it

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=545&p=2640&hilit=ce ... oval#p2640

These are from my blog site, i pulled the trailer out in a shed with various jacks under the keel, and used car stands to hold the keel base, with side props and support ropes added, also a 44 gal drum under the the stern for more safety. definitely don't want the 800kg? hull to fall on anyone

http://teria563.blogspot.com.au/2014/01 ... -hull.html (for the centerboard removal)

http://teria563.blogspot.com.au/2014/01 ... moval.html (it was rusted in, some pics of the pivot bolt removal)

Gday ozzie, that's a nice keel frame setup too

[Ozzie]

A very detailed instructable Andrew on your site . Great work . I did not realise the plastic packing plates were so big.

The 563 is a great boat. The keel and plate arrangement is the boats great strength but maintenance wise its biggest flaw. Good to see many have been able to do it.

I have not had to fully remove the plate yet but I know it's coming.