INVESTIGATOR 563

I'll also measure these two up. If any look likely I'll ask for a sample and let you know. Cheers,
Ian

GF42 is the one. A bit pricey at $20/metre. I partially removed one side of the teak rail to fix the leak (hull-deck joint separated) it's very soft in parts. If I had a saw bench and/or router, I think I'd go for wood.

I have a couple of shorter lengths of the Adams 10 ally toerail. About 2m long. If someone wanted to use them on foredeck area of gunwhale PM me and I can check lengths

Alu toe rail available from Philip West, Sheerline, 19 West St, Brookvale, NSW 2100, m. +61 418 222 731 A bit pricey for me. See next post for my attempts to build a router table.

Ian

Secondhand router and bits from gumtree, router table made from scraps. Test toe rail profile in pine preparing for some recycled polyethylene...
Things move slow round here. Ian

Drawing. If only I had a thicknesser, I could bring the standard 40x40 HDPE profile down to 40x30. I might try the electric plane.

Hi Ian. I wouldn't think that it would cost much to have a cabinet maker or other wood working shop run it through their thicknesser for you. If you were in Tassie, I would do it for you for free seeing as it's going on an investigator.

Thanks Peter, I reckon I can turn the electric plane upside down and rig up a guide (and try not to take my finger off). Wish I had your skills, but you only learn by trying.
Ian

The rail 4455, top right of Sheerline page is the Adams 10 rail which I have. If you buy it make sure it has slots punched and fixing holes drilled and countersunk

Ian, If you have a saw bench like a triton or similar, you could probably get a nice job if you fitted a fine tooth blade to the saw, cut the timber to size and then setting the depth of cut for each of the other two cuts you would need to remove the waste. That way, you would only have the small edge ( on the inside edge of the rail) to clean up. You could do this with a very sharp hand plane.
When ripping long lengths, you need a cut finger guide to press against the stock against the fence of the saw.
It's a piece of timber with many angled cuts in it which leaves thin fingers which act as a spring against the stock being cut.
The cut out would not need a routed finish. Straight off the saw with a fine blade would be ok as it is not seen, those two surfaces sit against the deck / you'll joint and would be sealed anyway.
The fidgeted guide, you could see on U TUBE I reckon but it will keep even pressure against the stock giving a nice smooth cut . I will try and find a photo of what I am talking about for you

Here is a UTube link. Cheers

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ilIHYEjrpP4&feature=share

You just clamp this to the saw bench to support the timber going through the saw and it stops it from floating away from the saw fence. Cheers