INVESTIGATOR 563

Morning all

I have noticed a number of Investigators with metal toerails (I think that's what it's called, the strip that joins hull to top side all around the boat) that have holes or slots drilled every couple of centimetres which would be very handy for attaching clips/lines etc.

I live in Victoria and would appreciate advice on where I could buy these from and also the best way to attach it.

Regards

Steve

The MAN for toe rail is Alan Guile at Guile Marine Accessories in Normanhurst Sydney - yes freight may be a problem but he will have an answer.
I used the Adams 10 toerail which Alan drilled to my specs (the slot punching was already done). This rail has a deck flange and then a turned down outer edge to conceal the hull/deck join. Was easy to attach single handed and actually increased the side deck width slightly as well as moving the stanchions further outboard.
Will try to get some pics and load then.

Great, thanks for the info.

Would love to see some photos so I can see exactly what it looks like

Cheers

Steve

I would like to replace my rotting maple toerail with aluminium too.

I called Alan Guile and he has confirmed cost is $260 plus GST for each 8.5m length.

No Way, before I order is it possible to see photos of yours? I am also interested in seeing how your stanchion are attached as I need to install these as per wife's orders.

Thanks in advance,

Mal

Mal
Attached are the only pics I've got.
You will note that there is a square teak packer to enable the rail to be bolted thru the flange rather than going inside the boat. This is held in place by small csk screws fitted horizontally thru the turn down flange.
I have no pics of the stanchion bases. The boat had stanchions originally but I modified them when I changed the rail.
The base is a std triangular plate with 3 bolts and was part of the stanchion - not the socket type. I had my engineer cut the bases off and added a squared plate to the outer edge of the original plate covering 2 of the original 3 holes. the extension has 2 holes and takes the base out to the slotted flange on the toe rail. The stanchion was welded to this plates outer edge.
The base is now bolted thru the original single inboard hole - which goes thru the deck inside the hull - and 2 holes thru the rail and flange. You can see in the pic of the aft end how the pushpit base is bolted. I just recently moved the pushpit outboard when I cut the rail down to make two corner rails with a wire between - much easier to get on and off
Will try to get some pics of the bases

Thanks No for all the details. The toerail you show is the same as what Alan suggested. I attached his spec sheet which he snail mailed me (no email), for other people to reference. He suggests having the holes drilled close to the outside in order that it can be bolted thru the outside of the hull as it is so tight for space there. You can see he has sketched on section approx location of hole.

Mal
Hold off on the hole position because I think mine are on the groove line in the extrusion - that is why I have to teak packer - it gives you a little extra deck width especially for the stanchions. Hope to be on boat for OZ day weekend so will check

On Yara (I50) the hull/ deck join appears to be thicker, and the screws are mounted vertical, on the groove line in the horizontal section.

Mal- try to get stanchions to lean outwards as much as possible. This throws more load (in action) onto the pullpit and pushpit and less on the mounting bolts. Good, long stiff packers under the deck also help spread and reduce the load.

Thanks guys for all the tips. I will keep you posted on how i go and will post pics of how I did it. Weather permitting I am heading out Australia Day too, on pittwater.b

Mal
I put mine on single handed so if yer wan any tips am happy to oblige.
NW