Outboard information

[Peter T]

Hi Ozzie, as you said, the biggest issue is if you break any bolts that get seized in place. That's why it's very important to use heat and a hammer to " shock" the bolts before attempting to undo them. It's always frightened me as to get a seized broken bolt out of aluminium is an absolute nightmare. That's why I think the best idea is to take it to a proper outboard mechanic to do the job as they are used to what is required. That is, if you think the bolts are too tight and that they may break. Once it breaks, it's too late. Also, this is why it's very important to use the correct anti seize on the threads when replacing the bolts.
The bolts are usually stainless steel threading into aluminium, and it's in salt water. I don't think I have to say much more mate. Electrolysis equals that white corrosion in the casing around the bolt which equals seized. This is why regular servicing is important. Timing is everything with these things.
PS. Don't mean to depress you mate.

[Watto]

Once snapped some spark plugs off in the vl commodore I had when I was a youngster. Bugger of a job to fix.

Since then I’ve picked up a trade and become a suit for it. Refrigeration air conditioning.

Happy to put the effort in and save some dollars.

Service my 2hp air cooled Honda myself as it’s as simple as oil and spark plug. Next service is a wash out of the carb. But my 9hp old Johnston I got one of the old fellas from work so the impeller and he got a spare so next time it’s due I’ll do it myself.

[Ozzie]

Lots of good input there and thanks everyone. I’m obviously in two minds . Even mechanics have different takes on stuff. My mobile mech working on the big motor was very experienced and actually had to tap/repair one bolt and hole. Another mechanic working on one of my old fives would not even attempt the job stating repair of a few broken bolts was worth more than the motor. A fair comparison between a 140hp and a five I suppose.

Luke you reminded me I cracked the ceramic on a plug in my EA Falcon. They were deeeply recessed into the head Got it out but was panicking that some crepe might have gotten into the plug hole during the process. (It didn’t) Part of the reason, including the injection, that I hung up my tools . It was easier to play a gig on the weekend and use that money to pay a mechanoid to service the car Worst that I could bust there was a string!

Outboards are still one of the things serviceable these days by the average punter I guess, unlike everything else. On our second last dishwasher I could pull it out, have the pump out, remove a blockage and have it back in half an hour. Last one, similar problem, not worth fixing out of warranty. I tried, but everything was moored to water catching base with float switches and left handed framels and high explosive trip switches. To the dump. Current one has a five year warranty and luckily so, as we just had a malfunctioning pump fixed. Sheeet.

Peter, as you said the correct anti seize grease is a must. Also I think once all is well you absolutely need to keep the services regular. I remember my “big motor” mechanic saying that even if you don’t service the donk loosening and regreasing the bolts needed for servicing the lower leg yearly was a must, particularly as I was on a mooring. In some ways I miss my old “Ancient Mariner “ air cooled 5 that was the original motor that came with the boat. Bloody noisy but simple. It was nearly 40 years old and still going when I sold it.

Plenty of old clunkers come up on gummy, might pick one up and practice. Good input, any other stories, good or bad are helpful to all members.

[Ozzie]

Well ...after a long lead I’m hoping to get my 4hp Jono back from my ailing mechanic. He’s waiting on some replacement screws for the carbie since before Xmas.

I’m wondering if any members have experience with the screw in type of flushing fittings on outboards . I’m trying to simplify my flushing process on the boat . Although my minimalist water bucket works, some outboards have a fitting that screws out under the power head and allows direct connection of a garden hose .

I’m also considering trying this on my little orange cat(dinghy) as I’m now powering it with the tohatsu 5 blue smoke it came with and it’s fitted with a large foil/ anti cavitation plate . This plate is terrific and makes the boat knots quicker on the water than my old Mercury (which I’ve sold) by lifting the bum of the boat at speed . It does however make flushing a PITA as you need a fish tub of water to accommodate the foil. Earphones style flusher is difficult as the water pickup is under the cav plate. The previous owner used them and gave me them but it’s a fiddle at best.

So both motors would be easier to flush with the “direct injection “ method. Part is definitely available for the Tohatsu. I’ve got to check regarding the Jono 4 .

Ok ... problems. Various articles I’ve read suggest that the input is “south of the water pump “ so need a garden pressure hose , others suggest gravity feed is ok . Certainly the under cav plate pickup on the Towey actually “sucks” water up . But that’s the water pump doing that.

This thread on the other place by Zeebeede gives his slant on it. Just wondering if anyone here has experience or knowledge.

https://www.trailersailerplace.com.au/p ... b4a11d0dd4

Ok here’s more re Yamaha obs

https://cannons.com/2012/06/13/how-to-f ... aha-motor/

There are a couple of ways to cleanse the outboard: Use the built-in freshwater flushing device fitting located on the lower cowling on most Yamaha outboards (doesn’t require running the outboard), or use a flushing attachment (flush muffs) to supply clean cooling water through the water inlets on the sides of the gearcase while the outboard is running.[


Freshwater Flushing Device
After boating and with the boat on the trailer, trim your Yamaha outboard all the way down, take the keys out of the ignition, and remove the safety lanyard. If the boat is moored or on a lift, the procedure is similar, but trim the outboard up until the gearcase is out of the water to allow fresh water from the garden hose to flow down through the water inlets on the gearcase. Unscrew the garden hose connector from the fitting on the lower cowling, hook up a hose to the connector, open the spigot and let the clean, fresh water wash the contaminants out of the outboard’s water passages for 10-15 minutes. Then turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the connector, screw the garden hose connector back on the fitting, roll up the hose — and the job is finished.
If the boat is moored boat or on a lift, the procedure is similar – simply trim the outboard up until the gearcase is out of the water and institute the above procedure.
Cleaning the outboard by using the flushing device is equally effective if the outboard

So it seems running the engine is a no no with these direct injection ports . I have a “ Car Cube “ 12 volt wash tank I’ve spoken about before On here. It would probably pump water into the motor , the thermostat thing worries me. If you flushed it with fresh water immediately after stopping it , would the thermostat be still open and thus get right through the whole motor properly?? Lots of variables here as you can see .