Modified pushpit rail

[Geoff]

I decided to do a chop job on the pushpit rail to improve egress. Looking at some of the pics of other Investigators, some people have some flash jobs of it. But I didn't want to have any stainless welding done.

I cut out the rail and left about 40mm each end. I bought 4 stainless fittings from RTM online for $10 each, free postage over $30. Delivered in a few days. I think they are designed as bimini fittings. They are 22mm ID and have an Allen key head screw to clamp to the tubing. So one on each of the rail and one on each stub.

They have a 6mm hole in each end, so a stainless bolt and nut on the port end as a pivot, and a stainless sprung clevis with a drop clip (like the one on the forestay) on the other end.

Very happy with it. Quick and easy job and easily removed if I ever want to take it off.

[no way]

Have done mine similar but just used a Spectra line with snap hook across between the corner rails. Have never closed it.
Noticed your outboard bracket. I have the same bracket about 20 years old and last time out the grey plastic "board" fractured across the 2 upper bolt holes. I had read on a forum somewhere that it can happen. Was motoring across the Myall Broadwater when it happened and was only that the rudder touched bottom and flicked up that made me look aft. Was able to do a temporary save until I could get to a beach and work on it from water side. Am working on new timber replacement at the moment

[Geoff]

I did exactly that first - I put 2 22mm rubber chair feet over the stubs and made up a dyneema line and hook. Then when I saw the fittings, I got the cut out piece of rail and fitted it up.

Thanks for the heads-up on the plastic bit, I will keep my eye on it.

[no way]

My reasoning for the solution was that my corner stanchions were further out board than yours, virtually at the aft corner of the deck, so i had the rail cut in the centre and bent down to a new foot on the deck. Gives the pushpit 3 anchor points to deck for strength

[Geoff]

Thanks David.

no way, that would have been my ideal set up, so much more rigid and secure, but the traveller setup on my boat wouldn't allow that. I would have had to make the mounts on the inside or outside face of the transom. Because of not having that third leg, the rope option meant I couldn't tension, it all flexed. The way I went was the easiest and is pretty firm.

[Geoff]

Hi David,

was the solar panel on PE when you got her, or did you fit it?

[Ozzie]

Good setup Geoff. I have removed my gate from Spritzig II as it became a nuisance while constantly entering the boat to work. Mrs Ozzie also said it dropped down and hit her when she was polishing and so I’ve decided not to reinstall it. I will go with your fittings and a stainless chain with suitable clips . My opening is only about 450 wide, but a solid piece may get in the way with our juggling of the outboard whereas as chain can be clipped back out of the way.

Good solar setup David, I have a small panel to set up for the front window, needs mounting, but given my small battery it will keep it topped up. All I need it for is is basically nav lights for about an hour and a bit of interior light. Because we freecamp quite a bit in our motorhome we have a good variety of solar power banks and recharging lights to use when we do an overnight. I used to have a larger battery but lugging it home in the tender to charge was a bit of a pain.

Great to see different solutions for similar ideas on these pages. I read lots of forums, while not participating. I love sticking in a google search for “boat mods”, or something like “boat hacks” to use the likely American term and then hit “images”, let’s you do a quick visual scan quicker than reading lots of posts. Always interesting to see what comes up. People are bloody clever sometimes. Beats reruns of “Everybody hates Seinfeld’s 70’s Show” or “King of CSI Theory “

[Geoff]

My rail mod helped with climbing aboard over the transom, but backstay was still a problem. The traveller on Timeless is pretty wide. I have seen on pics of other I563's that the backstay attaching saddles are more inboard than mine, but the traveller makes that a non-option.

So I made up a couple of aluminium brackets and mounted them on the rear of the transom. The split stays now attach to them. I left the old saddles in place for redundancy, they are not a tripping hazard like the stay was.

Tested them out last week, all good and no movement. I will keep watching them, but now I have access above the ladder the full width of the cockpit hatch.

[Geoff]

Hi David,

Sorry mate, I can't shed any light. I didn't change them, and they look like they have been there a long time.

Just comparing, I would think the type that you have would be an easier thing to use. With mine you have to rest/balance the rudder on top of the supports, then thread the long stainless rod through all the aligned holes. Not the end of the world, but seems it would be easier to slip over the 2 pintles.

[Geoff]

Hi David,

I am not sure that the tiller is a factor on my boat, the way the rudder and tiller are combined and set up. I will pop in on in an hour or 2 and take a few pics and add them to the post so you can see how it is done. It is fairly basic. Probably won't change what you have to do, but it might add to your options.